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A good news story on the 2.7 ??

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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 1:02 pm   
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Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:43 am
Posts: 10
Hello,

New fellow here from Canada.

Have a chance to buy a Sebring sedan LXi, '04, 2,7 l. automatic.
114,000 km or 70,000 miles.

Pretty decent shape. Half price deal .

But after reading for a few hours yesterday at various pages about the water pump fails I am left wondering if there is anybody who has ever owned a Chrysler 2.7 that has NOT failed and sludged up.
Or is it simply inevitable ?

Right now it seems okay, clean looking oil, antifreeze seems up, no evidence of oil burning or soot at the tail pipe, no blow by air or very little with engine running and oil cap off, quiet running and decent acceleration.

Short of taking off the valve covers to see if there is sludge crap build up is there a slim chance I may have a few thousand miles of trouble free driving, engine wise?

Please is there anybody enjoying their 2.7 without fear in their hearts and pending doom?

Will say the oil and engine lights are on but the oil sending pressure unit is leaking a bit and a slight crack in one manifold.

I'll continue to read through here and get further informed, it is a sharp looking car.

Have a good one gent and ladies.

A.E.


Last edited by aecree on Thu Sep 14, 2017 2:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 2:34 pm   
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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 10:05 pm
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Location: St. Louis Mo.
All cars will have the water pump fail sooner or later. 2.7 gets a bad wrap because some brilliant engineer decided inside the crankcase was a good place for it. Biggest thing to remember is when it starts leaking don't wait and change it out. Oil sender is a common issue, do the key dance and look what code comes up on the odometer for the issue with the engine lightn


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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:04 pm   
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Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:43 am
Posts: 10
Thank you for the reply.

Yes, it does seem inevitable every where I have gone to research.
Have some worry the leak will not be at a weep hole but internally only, then will be hard to detect.

Good to know about the sensor, and tip on the engine light, will check codes tonight.

Thought of a sludge wash and long idle, after I drain the old of oil of course and fill with new, then do another change after a short 1000 miles.

But will drive first as the Winter approaches.

I can do the pump and chain repair and tensioners if it is as loose as they seem to get, but it's a big front tear down and I sure as shooting am not hauling the engine.

Will see how the first months go, just wanting to avoid a catastrophic engine fail about mid-winter, I got one of those outside air flow snow garages - called a tarp. :froztung:

Thanks again.



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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 5:10 pm   
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My Concorde with the 2.7 had 150k and the original water pump. But the sebring 2.7 is a little different because it's mounted sideways and since the cats are unloading a ton of heat on the motor when they have no air flow over them the water pump seals seem to fail a lot sooner. Good news is they don't seem to leak into the oil pan any more. Most times they leak at the weep holes letting you know it's time to replace the pump. Which is also a good time to upgrade your timing chain, gears, guides and tensioner.

Couple things to watch on the 2.7 Check coolant level and always look under the car for coolant leaks.

Never ever ran the 2.7 with an engine miss for more then a few minutes or you will kill the rod bearings. Way cheaper to tow it and fix the miss. Change oil and keep the cooling system in tip top shape.

Listen when starting the car first thing in the morning for any timing chain slap. If you hear any you might want to upgrade your chain tensioner. Most likely the tensioner o-ring is gone. The upgraded one stops the o-ring from ripping.

This motor is not one you can be lax on, but if you follow these things it can be a good motor and last a long time.

One other thing if you hear any rod knock when shifting gears on a little load your rod bearings are starting to go. It would be a good idea to replace them ASAP. Just the rod bearings, the main don't have any known problems.

Hope this helps.


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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 7:04 pm   
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Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 6:40 pm
Posts: 1158
Location: Indianapolis,IN
I've seen plenty of 2.7 Sebrings with over 200k miles. Many will say that the sludge problem was solved in 03-04. The water pump issue is something that one should look for as the car is approaching 100k. You may get lucky on the water pump. I bought a 01 just to find out what was going on with the 2.7, plus it has the cream interior. 01 is the worst year for issues. I have been keeping an eye on a slowly leaking water pump. I have to add a pint or so every two weeks. The motor has about 101k miles. Luckily I have a spare or two Sebrings in case I have a problem. Run some synthetic oil and keep the revs down and you should have some good luck with the engine.


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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:15 pm   
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Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:43 am
Posts: 10
Many thanks to all of you for imparting the knowledge you all have gained running these engines.

The engine light is the 02 sensors 2nd bank both sides , so the ones in back I guess, we cleared the code and lights out.
May replace the 02's.

Each post here has left me with some great tips to look out for.

Have some rust to deal with, rockers need some patching, rear bumper steel mount is rotting out .

Floors still good, new y pipe, new brakes all around, new alternator,new battery.

2500 dollars worth of repair receipts in the last 2 years, new linkage, 2 new axles, tie rods, etc..

500 bucks will buy it.

Thanks again guys, great to learn from you all !


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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:23 pm   
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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 10:05 pm
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Location: St. Louis Mo.
For 500 you really can't go wrong


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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:27 pm   
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Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:43 am
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toplscuda wrote:
For 500 you really can't go wrong


Thinking that Carl. :wink:

Man, that '68 Cuda would be a sweet thing indeed !

A.E.


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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:29 pm   
Site Administrator
Site Administrator

Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2007 3:56 pm
Posts: 4838
Location: Des Moines Iowa
My '04 2.7 has 159,9xx miles. No water pump issues or timing chain issues. (knock on wood) I do the maintenance, and drive it normally.


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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:31 pm   
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Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:43 am
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Garrysr wrote:
My '04 2.7 has 159,9xx miles. No water pump issues or timing chain issues. (knock on wood) I do the maintenance, and drive it normally.


Thank-you, great to hear. ;-]


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 PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:54 pm   
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Joined: Sun Sep 25, 2005 8:52 pm
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Location: The only Farmer City in the world
The sludge issue was solved during the '02 model year run. I've never read of an '03 or later having a sludge problem. I had a failed water pump on my '04 at 80,000 miles; but, I'm sure when I had a thermostat failure about 125 miles from home the wrong coolant (without HOAT) was used. Chrysler very specifically states to use only HOAT coolant as any other coolant is otherwise likely to eat/corrode the seals and lead to a pump failure. After a dealership replaced the pump, and used the correct coolant, I drove it another 95,000 miles without issue before selling it. My current '04 has only 61,000 miles and has had no issues; but, I had the coolant changed 5 years ago because at that point the original coolant was 8 years old and it's supposed to be changed for the 1st time at 5 years or 100,000 miles.

Good luck with what sounds like a very reasonable buy. :thumbsup:


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 PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 5:54 am   
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Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:43 am
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Good tip on the anti-freeze and valuable thoughts on the sludge and '01 issues.

Had read a bit about some engine upgrades.

Looks to be orange antifreeze in there now, will do some looking to top up or a flush and new add.

The oil sender unit is in a tight place looking from under the hoist, might actually be easier to access from the top.

Helpful forum !

A.E.


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 PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 8:33 am   
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Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 9:15 pm
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Location: Milwaukee, WI
As someone who has an '02 (in the time zone for sludge), synthetic oil has been run in it for a long time. I changed the water pump earlier this year and the inside was basically sludge-free. However, I had driven it with a miss for a while, and the oil level had dropped (leaks AND burns oil) and I didn't check it often enough and a bearing spun. Because I caught it quickly, I replaced the rod bearings and it is back on the road again, same engine, same crank, just new bearings.

Mine is at 193k miles (almost 3x your mileage) and still climbing. For $500 I'd grab it.

-Andrew


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 PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 9:05 am   
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Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:43 am
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icebrrg3rd wrote:
As someone who has an '02 (in the time zone for sludge), synthetic oil has been run in it for a long time. I changed the water pump earlier this year and the inside was basically sludge-free. However, I had driven it with a miss for a while, and the oil level had dropped (leaks AND burns oil) and I didn't check it often enough and a bearing spun. Because I caught it quickly, I replaced the rod bearings and it is back on the road again, same engine, same crank, just new bearings.

Mine is at 193k miles (almost 3x your mileage) and still climbing. For $500 I'd grab it.

-Andrew


Sweet ! great stuff Andrew.

My leak is at the oil sender as mentioned.

I'll be replacing it, asap.
So they have it topped up too high, probably because of the persistent oil loss.
Be backing off a liter out of it, don't like running an engine with that much oil.

The last owner passed, Sebring sat quiet for a couple of months, think not much driving with high oil level.

I'll be listening and feeling for misses as it goes along.

Much appreciated .

A.E.


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 PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 12:05 pm   
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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 10:05 pm
Posts: 3447
Location: St. Louis Mo.
Oil sender is hard to get to but best from underneath. Now once you get the plug undone pull it upto the top side and clean all the oil out of it. Best to pull the little seal out before doing it to get all the oil out or you may still have the oil light issue


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