Body - Convertible Top Backlight Valance Separation
NUMBER: 23-037-04
GROUP: Body
DATE: September 22, 2004
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 23-005-01, DATED MARCH 30, 2001, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDES ADDITIONAL MODEL YEARS.
SUBJECT:
Backlight Valence Separation
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves repairing a separated backlight valence.
MODELS:
1996 - 2000 (JX) Sebring Convertible

2001 - **2005** (JR) Sebring Convertible
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The backlight valence may become partially or completely separated from the backlight.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Unlatch and prop the convertible top header to a height of 200 mm (10 in.).

2. Scrape the glass and back side of the valence with a razor to remove any of the original adhesive. Place a 2 in. wide strip of duct tape "I used blue painters tape" on the glass the full length of the repair area. The tape should be placed 1-3 mm above the black material that can be seen through the glass at the bottom of the backlight (Fig. 2). This will be used as a reference line and to reduce the amount of adhesive on the glass during step 8.

3. Place another 2 in. wide strip of duct tape"I used blue painters tape" along the edge of the valence to cover the exposed surfaces and protect them from any adhesive damage. The tape should curl over the edge of the valence to protect the edge.

4. Using # 50 grit emery cloth, roughen the glass below the tape line. It is important that the glass surface be scored fully for the adhesive to hold. Roughen the back of the valence in the mating area. Be careful not to damage the thread seams during this operation.

5. Using a lint free cloth clean the valence and glass mating surfaces with isopropyl alcohol. Allow to dry for 5 minutes.

6. Apply the activator from the adhesive kit, covering both the glass and valence surfaces uniformly. For repairs over the entire length of the backlight, do one half at a time.

7. Apply the adhesive from the kit to the glass surface in a uniform layer. There must be sufficient adhesive on the surface, but not so much that it will squeeze out. The adhesive should be placed along the lower edge of the glass so it can squeeze upward.

8. Mate the valence to the glass using the duct tape as a guide. Apply hand pressure and smooth out bonded area making sure there is a good uniform bond with no bumps.

9. Clean off any excess glue with a scraper and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol.

10. Allow the adhesive to cure at room temperature for a period of 18 hours without any stress on the top.

bklynite,

Thanks for the info. One question though. Did you really use duct tape? I would have thought the adhesive from that tape would be a nasty cleanup job since it is so persistant.

I used blue painters tape. Chrysler would have a hard time convincing me to put duct tape on a cloth top.

Good catch :)
I updated the post..


Patrick

I followed the TSB procedure using the two part permatex 80885 trim adhesive. All went well until I opened the adhesive container. The adhesive was so thick and gummy that it wouldn't come out of the container. Had to cut the container end off to get the stuff out. It was very thick like a piece of gum. Did my best to stretch it out over the repair area but I don't think it's going to work.

Question, did anyone else have this happen? Maybe the stuff was too old and had been sitting in a warehouse a long time? I had to order it through a local parts store. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

thanks, sixwheel.

I know that this is somewhat of an older post, but I feel I have some relevant information to contribute. Anyone searching for permatex 80885 should find this in their search results.

My recent experience with the Permatex 80885 adhesive went something like sixwheel's did. I stopped when I realized that the adhesive was gummy, and procured some fresh adhesive.

If your 80885 adhesive is gummy, it's because the seal on the tube was compromised. The blister pack that the product comes in seems to do nothing to prevent the weak neck of the adhesive tube from cracking slightly if flexed, and the adhesive will gum up as a result. The product should run and spread in a manner similar to fresh rubber cement, not old, dried up rubber cement.

I repaired my '01 LXi using some stuff I bought at Lowe's. It's called Polyseamseal adhesive caulk, and it comes in a 6 oz tube for about $3 or so if I remember rightly. Buy the clear variety. It comes out of the tube white but dries clear. It's quite sticky.

The remainder of the method for preparing the surfaces is applicable with the exception of the sanding. I did not sand the glass. Also, to keep a little pressure on the glue joint, I tucked a couple of yardsticks under the edges of the window opening in the top and the moulding surrounding the top. The sticks formed an "X" over the joint. I put a plastic bag under the sticks to keep them from sticking in the glue.

I did this almost a year and a half ago and the repair is holding up perfectly well. The car is kept in a garage and not driven much in the winter so this may not be the most severe test.