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rear window defroster

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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 5:02 pm   
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Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:59 am
Posts: 467
Location: virginia
noticed in the last week that my rear window is not clearing when I turn on the rear defrost...the indicator light on the dash is coming on by still no worky...is this fuse issue or have I got a bad connection somewhere?


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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:27 pm   
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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:05 pm
Posts: 2689
Location: St. Louis Mo.
Look closely at where the connectors attach to the glass. I have had to resolder both of mine in the last year.


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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:30 pm   
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toplscuda wrote:
Look closely at where the connectors attach to the glass. I have had to resolder both of mine in the last year.


:yeahthat: The tabs on the rear defroster breakibng off is the most likely cause


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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:28 pm   
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bklynite wrote:
The tabs on the rear defroster breakibng off is the most likely cause

Mine is still broke... I tried glueing and apoxy.... Nothing... But I figure I wont have to worry about it until next winter now.


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 PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:44 pm   
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I thought they fixed that between the two generations. I know for a fact that the connector is broken on my '97, but I guess that's one of the nice things about living in the desert, I only have an issue with it 3 or 4 times a year.


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 PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 11:43 pm   
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If you tried to only glueing the two metal parts it's very difficult it work.
the glue is an electric non-conductor.
You can try to use a paint that conduct energy.
like this
http://stores.ebay.it/TECNOIMPIANTI-ELE ... idZ2QQtZkm
try to spray it on the parts after you glued it. you have to create a layer that include the two parts.

Also my car is having this problem. When the sun permit I've to do it. :thumbsup:


Basch wrote:
bklynite wrote:
The tabs on the rear defroster breakibng off is the most likely cause

Mine is still broke... I tried glueing and apoxy.... Nothing... But I figure I wont have to worry about it until next winter now.


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 PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:50 pm   
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I had the same problem when I purchased my used 'bring....

I tried a few things... junky epoxy from Advanced Auto Parts... didn't work at all!

The best thing I found was FrostFighter... http://www.frostfighter.com -- easy to apply and IT WORKS GREAT! :lol:


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 PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:59 pm   
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Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:56 pm
Posts: 3477
Location: Des Moines Iowa
Nice signature, jefola! You've been to the same site I have.


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 PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:10 pm   
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I'm looking up at the two post above me and it :arrow: Looks like we got some Brass on the board :patriot:

This is the place to be when your Sebring is FUBAR :D


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 PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:40 pm   
Site Administrator
Site Administrator

Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:56 pm
Posts: 3477
Location: Des Moines Iowa
bklynite wrote:
I'm looking up at the two post above me and it :arrow: Looks like we got some Brass on the board :patriot:

This is the place to be when your Sebring is FUBAR :D


No no no, those would be NCOs (sergeants). No brass there! :lol:
Second comment- definitely!


Last edited by Garrysr on Thu May 29, 2008 10:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 9:53 pm   
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I bought a glue on repair kit and it fell off right a way again. I then read on how to solder it on and did what it said and it's worked ever since.

Mowman


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 PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 10:06 pm   
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Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:19 pm
Posts: 280
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Yea, solder worked best for me.


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 PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 10:29 pm   
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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:05 pm
Posts: 2689
Location: St. Louis Mo.
:yeahthat:
Still holding strong.


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 PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2008 10:07 pm   
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Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2008 9:15 am
Posts: 1280
Location: Forked River NJ
NUMBER: 08-001-02
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: Jan. 21, 2002

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 08-009-01,
DATED MAY 18, 2001, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR
FILES. THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION AND NO ASTERISKS HAVE
BEEN USED TO HIGHLIGHT REVISIONS.
SUBJECT:
Rear Window Defogger Inoperative
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves replacing and reorienting BOTH rear window defogger
grid terminal clips so the tips face outboard, as necessary. Failure to reorient
the terminal clips may result in an additional failure.
NOTE: VEHICLES BUILT AFTER MAY 01, 2001 (MDH 0501XX) HAVE REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER TERMINAL CLIPS ORIENTED WITH TIPS FACING OUTBOARD.
MODELS:
2001 - 2002 (JR) Sebring Convertible
1996 - 2000 (JX) Sebring Convertible
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The rear window defogger is inoperative and defogger grid terminal(s) is separated
from the rear window heating grid and/or may be broken.
DIAGNOSIS:
Inspect the rear window grid terminals. If the grid terminals are securely fastened to the
heating grid and the rear window defogger is inoperative further diagnosis is required. If one
or both clips have broken or separated from the heating grid, perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty. Part No. Description
1 05080753AA Kit, Rear Window Defogger Clip Repair
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
Electric Solder Gun, Rated Between 250 and 500 Watts
NOTE: DO NOT USE A FLAME TYPE SOLDERING GUN OR SOLDERING GUN RATED
GREATER THAN 500 WATTS, DAMAGE TO THE GLASS COULD OCCUR.
08-001-02 -2-
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the headliner strap by removing the screw from the carpet, then pull
the headliner away from the terminal clip area, (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 HEADLINER ATTACHMENT
1 - HEADLINER ATTACHING SCREW
2 - HEADLINER
2. Remove the wire connector from the terminal clip. If the terminal clip is
broken and a portion of the clip is still attached to the heating grid, remove
the portion of the clip remaining in the wire connector.
NOTE: PLACE A PROTECTIVE MAT BELOW THE CLIP AREA TO CATCH
ANY SOLDER THAT MAY DRIP OFF OF THE GLASS.
3. If clip has come loose from the glass, skip to step 5.
4. Apply heat with a solder gun to the portion of the terminal clip on the glass
until the solder starts to flow, remove the clip then smooth the solder. Wait 5
minutes for the glass to cool before proceeding, (Fig. 2).
-3- 08-001-02
Fig. 2 CLIP REMOVAL
1 - HEAT CLIP TO REMOVE
5. Clean mating surfaces on grid and new clip with “000” extra fine steel wool.
NOTE: EXCESSIVE ABRASION MAY WEAR AWAY THE GRID COPPER
SURFACE AND GRID CONTINUITY WILL BE LOST.
6. Holding the new terminal clip with a metal “pick” or other suitable pointed
tool, place the new terminal clip in the same location as the original terminal
clip but with the tip of clip facing outboard.
NOTE: THE TIP OF THE TERMINAL CLIP MUST FACE OUTBOARD.
CLIPS ARE PRE-SOLDERED AND FLUXED. DO NOT REUSE A CLIP
IF IT HAS BEEN HEATED PREVIOUSLY.
7. Place the solder gun on the new terminal clip and heat until the solder flows.
Remove the solder gun and continue to hold the clip in position for 5 seconds.
Let the solder area cool for 10 minutes, (Fig. 3).
08-001-02 -4-
Fig. 3 CLIP ORIENTATION AND ATTACHMENT
8. Attach the wire connector to the terminal clip.
9. Repeat the procedure on the other side of the rear window if the tip of the terminal clip is
not facing outboard or the clip has broken or the clip has come loose from the glass.
10. Test the rear window defogger grid for continuity. If successful perform step
11, if not, additional grid diagnosis will be necessary.
11. Install the headliner straps to the carpet using the original screws.
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation
No:
Description Amount
08-91-PK-91 Terminal, Rear window Defogger Replace One 0.3 Hrs.
08-91-PK-92 Terminal, Rear window Defogger Replace Both 0.4 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE:
21 Connection Defect


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 PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:59 pm   
Bronze Member

Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 6:42 pm
Posts: 303
To fix my 99, I bought the Frost Fighter kit mentioned in many posts of this forum. Followed the instructions.... lightly sand contact areas and mix up the 2 chemicals. I used an old piece of heater host to keep the connector attached to the window while the mix setup. I wedged the heater hose between the top of the back seat and the clip going onto the window and let it sit for a day. The heater hose is flexible enough to get it into position, and rigid enough not to move once you have it where you want it. Removed the hose the next day and the clip is on there solid. It's been 6 months now, and no issues.


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