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No heat when idling

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 PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 12:28 pm   
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My girlfriends 2001 convt with the infamous 2.7 does not blow hot air when the car idles, as soon as car moves the heat flows. I bought her a remote starter for Xmas so that the car would be warm on these cold Chicago mornings but when the car starts and runs for 10 minutes no hot air comes out , once the car moves she gets hot air, when she stops at a traffic light the flow of hot air stops but the fan continues to blow but only cold air. When sitting still in neutral and the engine is reved, hot air comes out.
Help!


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 PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 7:32 pm   
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http://www.sebringclub.net/board/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=21409

Even though the link applies to 2.5L it has a lot of bearing on the 2.7L as well.

OBTW, welcome to the site.


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 PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:33 pm   
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If you have good heat while moving it would indicate that the core is ok (no obstruction). It seems you like you may have a head gasket or cylinder head failure.


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 PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 9:06 pm   
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Could be as simple as a bad filler cap also. You are losing pressure in the system somewhere. First thing check the coolant level.


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 PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:03 am   
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Thanks RAM, MOPAR and Terry for your replies. Glad I found you guys , nice site.
I will start with the rad cap and then check for other leaks. Pressure loss makes sense.

Car only has about 55K now, I found it out in Iowa a year and a half ago with 38k in a farm yard for $4K and it is in very nice condition and extremely clean. I had the bumpers painted and the car looked like new. I only read about the problem with the 2.7L engines after I bought it and hope to stay ahead of the sludge if I can. At worst if she gets 40k out of the car it will be a winner. Then again if she gets it to 140K, it will be a home run. So far it has been flawless except for the lack of heat.
AMP


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 PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:20 am   
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AMP,

The 2.7L cooling system has a problem child in it. Passenger's side near the firewall on top of everything else is a ?water distribution box" that has an air bleed valve on it. The idea is to have it open while filling the main reservoir so that any air is allowed to escape the system at its highest point. It has two common issues. One is that it is often overlooked by those filling the system. The second is the housing is a thermoplastic material sitting inside an oven engine bay. It gets brittle and often leaks at the seam in the body of the box. Any brown staining along the seam is a good clue that it has or is leaking.

Get the air out of the system (includes checking for other leaks) and you should be good to go.


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 PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:09 am   
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Never know what you might find in an Iowa farm yard...recently, it has all been politicians! I think many Iowans would trade for a nice '01 Sebring converitble! :rofl:

Best of luck on the heat, and be glad it isn't a politician, though if it were, there would be no shortage of hot air!


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 PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:21 am   
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Thanks Bandaide
I will check out the box, is there a secret to letting the air out?
Do you think that this is a precursor to the sludge problem in that if one does not bleed the air out of the cooling system it gets out of wack and sends the system into ultimate failure which leads to moisture in the engine and ultimatly to sludge?.
My research on the 2.7L problem led me to think it was primarily caused by the failure of the internal water pump that put water in the crank case, hence the rapid sludge up that led to premature engine failure.
As I recall, most of the articles I read were from a much earlier date, is there now any more clarification of what causes the sludge problem? Has Chrysler ever said what causes the problems?
AMP


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 PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:49 am   
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Before you panic, the 2.7 has received a bad rap on the Internet. I can safely say that most will not have sludge issues. Mine at 146,000 is very clean inside.

I also did have the same heating issue as you once. Turned out to be a bad pressure cap. Give that a shot.


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 PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:04 pm   
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taman76 has a good starting point too. I hadn't realized that the 2.7L had a similar issue to the 2.5L in the 1st gen Sebrings. The 1st gens use a standard radiator cap and have issues with the metal filler neck developing mineral deposits that cut the gaskets in the cap creating an air leak.

The 2.7L uses a plastic reservoir and cap because the reservoir is part of the pressurized system and not just an "overflow". So a bad oring or gasket in the cap will create a similar issue.

As for bleeding the system, I've not had specific experience on 2.7L. We do have a post in the Gallery How To Album IIRC that should have some specific filling instructions for the 2nd gen Sebrings that should cover the bleeding.

In a nut shell, after running the engine to normal temperature with the heater on full, let the system settle for a few minutes and then open the bleed valve on the distribution box. It doesn't have to be removed, just "cracked" open so that you either hear a hiss or see coolant coming through it. Once the coolant is coming through, you can close it. It may take several tries before the system is fully clear of air assuming you have no air leaks. You should not be smelling any antifreeze unless you've opened the system up.

If that doesn't help, another potential source of the problem could be one or both heater hoses having an internal collapse that acts like a valve. When the pump is running at a higher rpm, the hose may open and close again when it's at idle.


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 PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:09 pm   
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I found this on the site and will make these modifications to the engine, thanks for all the help guys, 140k here we come!!!
does the 2001 have the SBEC engine #?

I have her on a 5k oil change schedule with a syn-blend.

any other suggestions to make it last longer or run better are welcome.


Chrysler 2.7L V-6 - Sludge

The problem is due to a leaking water pump gasket between the pump itself and the engine block. Engines manufactured prior to 2004 had gaskets that were prone to dissolving, which eventually caused coolant to drip into the oil pan, mix in with the engine oil at the pump, turn into a rich, creamy sludge, and get pumped throughout the engine.

If you own a vehicle with one of these engines manufactured prior to 2004, I highly suggest you have the water pump changed out now with a new OEM pump with P/N 4892425AA ($44.46 at DodgeParts.com).

Please note that Chrysler has redesigned this water pump so that it can better withstand the timing chain stresses associated with a running engine. This redesign also means that a new timing chain kit is required in order to properly install the new OEM water pump. The kit for SBEC engines is P/N 68036787AA for $208.80, and the kit for NGC engines is P/N 68036788AA for $170.40. If you have a 2004 model year car, check the physical appearance of your engine computer. If it has two large plugs coming out of it, use the SBEC kit. If the engine computer has 4 smaller connectors coming out of it, use the NGC kit.


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 PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:07 pm   
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Check the thermostat at first


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 PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:36 pm   
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New Radiator Cap (Stant 11230) worked for me. I cleaned up the filler neck then warmed up with heat on high, added more anti-freeze, waited about ten minutes as air escaped then reved to about 1500rpm added fluid to top of neck and put on cap.
Back to normal.
97 JXi


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 PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:14 pm   
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Had a chance to work on the car this weekend and it was low on coolant , it took half a gallon to bring it back up to normal. I was unable to open the bleed valve on the distribution box, when I turned it, the brass fitting in the plastic turned as well. The distribution box is leaking so that will need to be replaced. However filling the radiator solved the problem and we get heat at idle.
I plan to replace the dist. box and the water pump asap with the upgraded parts.

Thanks to all for the guidance.


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 PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:19 pm   
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Fantastic. Finding the problem is 1/2 way to solved. It's also nice when it's kinda easy. ;)


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